When we first started talking about taking the Trans-Siberian Railway as a means to get from Moscow to Beijing, images of a steam plumes chugging from the locomotive while gliding through the Urals popped into my mind. I had visions of eating in a tastefully decorated dining car while eating thoughtfully prepared Russian meals mixed with the idea of gathering around the samovar to drink piping hot tea with new friends.
None of this was true. The train itself felt no different than being on an Amtrak train and the dining car was a dimly lit example of how to inappropriately apply linoleum. The one thing that did ring true, and was honestly the best part of the trip, was drinking tea with new friends. One of the highlights of this journey we’re on has been the people we’ve gotten to meet, and the Trans-Siberian Railway was no exception.
First, there was Pavel. Our first evening on the train happened to coincide with what would ultimately be Russia’s last game in the World Cup, and we quickly discovered that the place to be to try and catch the game was in the dining car. We entered the car to find a huddle of men gathered around a radio, desperately scanning the constantly changing airwaves to find some coverage of the game. As we cheered on Russia through their incredible come back in extra time, we began chatting with Pavel. He lived in Moscow with his family, but his wife was from a small town in between Moscow and Ekaterinburg. This was going to be the first time his whole family would be traveling to see his in laws, and the whole village was excited. In between halves and extra time, we chatted about life in Russia, Pavel apologized for his English (though he didn’t need to because it was still quite impressive) and we talked about how similar and different life was in the States and Russia. And though Russia ultimately lost on penalty kicks, we were all smiles at the new insight and new friend we’d just made. And of course, the vodka shots helped.
Next, there was Denis, who joined us halfway through our journey from Moscow to Ekaterinburg. He’d hopped on in the middle of the night at Kazan, where he’d just seen Belgium knock out Brazil in the quarterfinals of the World Cup. Even though he didn’t speak a lot of English, once he heard we were going to Ekaterinburg without much of an agenda, he eagerly gave us his phone number in case we needed recommendations or help. Luckily, we never needed to, but it was a kind and unexpected gesture.
Then, there was Igor. We met Igor on our second, and longest leg, of the train – 3 straight days from Ekaterinburg to Irkutsk. Having just finished his first year at university in St. Petersburg, he was on his first solo trip across Russia to visit a friend. Igor hailed from Marmonsk, the largest city within the Arctic Circle, and was as eager to hear about our journey and life in the States as we were to know what it’s like growing up inside the Arctic Circle. We spent the next three days talking about school, friendship, tackling adulthood, and travel.
From Irkutsk to Ulan Bator, we met Rob and Claire – a British couple embarking on an adventure very similar to ours. Newly wed, and with jobs and homes left behind, they were setting out on a journey almost entirely on train to see the world. And once you’ve been through a multi-stage border crossing in the dead of night, your status quickly goes from strangers to friends.
So lucky were we with bunk mates on each stage of our train journey that when we hopped aboard in Ulan Bator for our last leg into Beijing, I was actually quite disappointed to learn we would have the whole car to ourselves. A bunking situation I had initially hoped for when we began the journey now turned into a sad day and a half of friendships and conversations missed.
While most of what the movies tell you about train rides is a lie, the biggest reality is the one I’m the most grateful for. We may never speak to some of these people again, but the opportunity to share experiences, learn about different parts of the world, and have my worldview expanded is one I will never forget.
